Tuckpointing & Mortar Repair in the Chicago Suburbs

A jointer tooling fresh mortar joints next to old, worn joints on a red brick wall

Signs your mortar is due

Mortar sits back from the face of the brick, or you can scrape it out with a key
Sand and grit collecting on window sills and along the foundation
Cracks or gaps running through the joints, especially in a stair-step pattern
Loose bricks around windows, steps and the top of walls
Damp spots, peeling paint or a musty smell on the inside of an outside wall

How we do it

Look at the wall up closeWe check how deep the damage goes, how hard or soft your brick is, and the joint style you have now.
Grind out the old mortarDamaged joints are cut out to an even depth, usually about 1/2 to 3/4 inch, so the new mortar has something solid to grab.
Mix to matchWe match the color and use a mortar suited to your brick. Older, softer brick needs a softer mortar so the joints take the wear instead of the brick.
Pack and tool the jointsNew mortar goes in tight, in layers where the joints are deep, then gets tooled to the same profile as the rest of the wall.
Clean upWe brush down the wall, clean the dust off the work area and haul away the debris.

Matching your joint style

The shape of the mortar joint changes how a wall looks and how well it sheds water. We match the profile you have, so repairs don't stand out.

ConcaveCurved inward. The most common joint on homes around here, and it sheds water well.

V-jointPressed into a V. Sharp shadow lines, and it sheds water well.

FlushCut even with the brick. Common on walls that get painted or plastered.

WeatheredSlopes down and out from the top so water runs off.

RakedRecessed about 1/4 inch. Strong shadows, but it holds water, so it suits sheltered walls.

Side view of a mortar joint between two bricks. The outside of the wall is on the right.

What's included

Full-house tuckpointing
Chimney tuckpointing
Spot repairs on the walls that need it most
Tuckpointing for garages, fences and outbuildings
Commercial and multi-unit buildings
Grinding out and repointing stair-step cracks

What affects the price

Every job is different, so we price it after we see it. These are the things that move the number:

How many square feet of wall need new joints
How deep the joints are worn and need to be cut out
Height and access: one story, two stories or a chimney
Matching an unusual mortar color or joint style
Any loose or broken brick that needs replacing along the way

Estimates are free.

Homeowner guideHow to tell if your house needs tuckpointingMortar joints wear out slowly, so it's easy to miss until water starts getting in. Here's what to look for, outside and in, and when it's time to call.

Questions about tuckpointing

How long does tuckpointing last?

Done right, new mortar joints usually last 25 years or more. Chimneys, parapet walls and the side of the house that takes the most weather wear out first.

Do I need the whole house done?

Not always. Mortar usually fails first on chimneys, the weather side of the house and spots under gutters or downspouts. We'll tell you which walls need it now and which can wait.

Will the new mortar match?

We match the color and joint style of your existing mortar as closely as we can. New mortar can look a little different for the first few weeks while it cures.

When is the best time of year for tuckpointing?

Spring through fall. Mortar needs temperatures above about 40°F while it cures, so most tuckpointing around Chicago happens from April through November.

How is tuckpointing priced?

By the square footage of wall, how deep the joints need to be cut, and how hard the wall is to reach. A two-story wall or a chimney needs more setup. We give you a free estimate after we look at it.

Where we do tuckpointing

We work across Chicago and the suburbs, including:

Tuckpointing & mortar repair